2010 Kazmer & Blaise "Boon Fly's Hill" Chardonnay
We continue to charge down a winemaking path that shows no clemency to the esoteric palate. Not subtle, not restrained, this wine style does not demand intellectualism. Not even rationalism. This wine discourages contemplative introspection. This is a wine that favors the lusty embrace of a hedonist.
At our Poseidon Vineyard, originally planted in 1973, the maritime influence of the Carneros grape-growing season delivers cool, foggy mornings followed by warm days; ripening is nurtured slowly. Rising at the southernmost edge of the vineyard is the small, gravelly “Boon Fly′s Hill” that overlooks the Napa Valley Marina; boats bob in the water just a few steps away. Boon Fly was a colorful character from the early days of the settlement of Carneros; legend has it that he is buried somewhere on this hill. This two-acre block of vines consistently produces our most elegant and distinguished Chardonnay, and we honor that distinctiveness—and Boon Fly himself—with this reserve bottling.
As a post-drought vintage the growing season began with plenty of water in the soils. It was stunning to see it rain in June here in Napa, but rain it did. The summer was dramatically foggy and cool and inspired comments from all of us—old-timers included—that this was like no summer anyone had ever seen (little did we know we would see it repeat itself again in 2012). Although a nail-biter to the end, the grapes ripened, and they did so on a prolonged schedule. The warmth of September, although typical, was very welcome after such a cool season.
The Kazmer & Blaise Chardonnay 2010 behaved well during fermentation and set itself up for the year and a half of sur lie aging in the Tokaji barrels without any of the complaints of the previous vintage. Acidity from the exposure of Boon Fly’s Hill is a hallmark of this block and is the pedestal of the flavors which evoke apple, lemon and pear tart with a gorgeous fresh baked crust aroma. We select heavily toasted barrels for aging our Chardonnay and give the wine 21 months of salubrious slow aging in barrel.
Alex Beloz, Winemaker